Changing ukulele strings takes some practice, but once you learn how to do it, it’s something to look forward to because it refreshes your ukulele.
How often you should change your ukulele’s strings is debatable. Some people change them every couple of weeks, some every couple of years. In general, you will get more mileage from a non-metal string. Metal-wound strings have a tendency to wear out over the frets and rust. So how often? Here are some signs that it might be time to change strings:
- They become hard to tune. I find that I have to tune an old set of strings way more than a new one. Even when I can get them in tune, they still don’t sound quite right – the intonation is off.
- One breaks. If a string breaks, unless the set is new, I would just replace all of the strings. If two in a row break in the same place, you probably have a sharp edge ether on the nut or the saddle. This has nothing to do with how old the strings are and should be checked out before you put on a new set.
- The wound (or any) strings are falling apart. A little bit of wear is okay, but when pieces of metal start to chip away, it’s time to change. Besides probably starting to buzz, a string that snaps while you are playing stings like crazy if it hits your hand on the way by.
Changing the strings:
Tools that can make your life easier:
- A string winder will save you a lot of time winding and unwinding the tuning pegs. I’ve just got a low budget one, but some of the fancy models like those by Planet Waves have string cutters too.
- Nail clippers. Really. They are by far the best way to cut strings.
1. Loosen the tuner until you can pull the string out of the machine head. Then undo the knot at the bridge and slide the string out of the bridge hole, making sure to keep the string from scratching the surface of your ukulele.
- An alternate way to do this if you are gung-ho is to cut the string at full tension. It doesn’t snap as much as you think, but be sure to keep your hand on the string so it doesn’t flip into your eye. I like to cut the strings close to the bridge and put my hand on the strings over the sound hole. That way there isn’t enough string length to damage anything near the bridge and your hand keeps the long end tame.
2. Take the new string out of its pack and feed one end through the hole in the bridge. There should be two or three inches sticking out toward the ukulele’s base.
3. Next tie a knot like this:
Directions given as if your are holding the ukulele face up with the headstock pointing away from you.
- Pull the string over the top of the bridge, towards the nut a little ways. Then, from the left side, feed the short end of string around and under the long end of string.
- The short end should go in between the saddle and high piece of the bridge when the string-holes are.
- After that is done, pull the short end of string towards you and over the bridge (to the left), going over the length of string you just fed around the long end.
- Now feed the string under the bit that goes over the bridge.
- Pull it back over and thread it under again. The last “under” should go over the edge of the bridge and point at the ground when you hold the ukulele.
- A third loop will help hold the smaller strings tighter if you are having problems with slippage.
4. Now hold the short end so it stays over the edge of the bridge and pull on the end of string that goes to the nut so that the bridge-knot tightens up.
…Or with bridge pins:
1. Loosen the strings and pull the pins and old strings out.
2. Tie a knot on one end of the new string. Feed it into the hole in the bridge. If there is a little slot you can rest the string in, do so.
3. Fit a bridge pin into the hole snugly, but not too tight (if there is a groove on one side of the pin, line this up with the string).
4. Pull on the long end of the string until you feel the knot settle into the pin. Push the pin in the rest of the way into the hole and continue pulling the long end until everything is tight.
5. Pull the string across the fretboard and up the center of the headstock (in between the tuning pegs). Pull the string through the hole in the tuning peg. How tight you pull the string at this stage depends on the string gauge. I pull the A string as tight as I can, but give myself a couple inches of flab (with the string pulled up off the freboard) with the low-G string. I do this because the fat strings pull up to tension faster than the skinny strings. I like to have as few wraps as possible with a minimum of one wrap so that the string doesn’t slip.
- For the smaller strings you might need to tie a knot at the tuning peg to stop the string from slipping. Check out Ukulele’s by Kawika for a diagram of the best knot (fig 4).
6. Now place the string in the correct nut-slot and start winding the string onto the tuning peg. The first time around, the string should go over the protruding end to prevent slippage. Continue winding the string neatly under the protruding end of the string until up to pitch.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for the rest of the strings on your ukulele.
8. Now perform a final tune up and clean up your old strings. (If you can find them. The clear Worths that I use are almost invisible.)
- You can pull the strings off the fretboard an inch or two to get them stretched and tight around the tuning pegs (go easy at first until know how much the string can take). Stretch and tune up, stretch and tune up, until the string doesn’t go flat when you pull on it. (This will happen by itself over the period of a few days to a few weeks, but doing this speeds things up)
- I also recommend clipping off the loose ends of the strings so that only around a 1/4-1/2 of an inch is left sticking out. I’ve seen guys who can wind up the extra string really nice on the headstock, but I haven’t figured out how they do it yet, so for me it’s an eye hazard with those long ends poking out at odd angles.
To learn about what strings to use or how to tune:
Aldrine does a good job explaining how to change strings in this video: